The Melon Crop Top - Scrap Buster Pattern from The Linen Lab

Crop Top in Morning Calm Ginkgo
@southern_mims wearing View C in Morning Calm Ginkgo in 100% Linen

Melon Crop Top Introduction :

Below you will find the instructions for the scrap busting pattern, Melon Crop Top from The Linen Lab. This “pattern” is designed to be created with just two rectangles, a drawstring and one or two wide elastic bands (optional). This is a beginner friendly design and can be made in 1-3 hours depending on skill level/ chosen view. This pattern was designed for a B cup, for larger or smaller cups, consider sizing up or down for the front panel. If you are between sizes, please size up to ensure the top will fit. You can also match the front panel to your bust and back panel to your waist, if your bust size on the chart is larger than your waist. I would view the size chart as a minimum size, especially with view B and C (elastic waist), you may want to size up for a roomier feel.  This top is drafted for a height of 160 cm, so extend or shorten the length if needed. This is designed to sit at your natural waist, well above the belly button. We also encourage you to get creative with this and hack it to your heart's desire! You could try lengthening this to make longer shirts, dresses and everything in between! 

This pattern comes with three views and 2 drawstring shoulder strap options: tied at the shoulder or attached. 

View A – Loose waist without elastic band 

Crop Top in Thin Strip Linen

100% Linen Thin Stripe Fabric 6495 

View B – One elastic band with a ruffle effect below the elastic

Crop Top View B in Morning Calm Jogakbo

View C – Two elastic bands for a fully elastic waist

Crop Top View C in Vintage Dobby Stripe Linen

Drawstring options – Attached or Shoulder tie

Attached vs Shoulder tie options

Size Chart (cm / inches)

US Size

Bust (cm)

Waist (cm)

Bust (in)

Waist (in)

0

66

58

26

23

2

71

63

28

25

4

76

68

30

27

6

81

73

32

29

8

86

78

34

31

10

91

83

36

33

12

96

88

38

35

14

101

93

40

37

16

106

98

42

39

18

111

103

44

41

20

116

108

46

43

22

121

113

48

44

24

126

118

50

46

26

131

123

52

48

28

136

128

54

50

30

141

133

56

52

32

146

138

57

54

34

151

143

59

56

36

156

148

61

58

38

161

153

63

60

40

166

158

65

62

 

Notions: 

3 cm or 2.5 cm (1.25 in or 1 in) wide elastic band (View B – 1 piece, View C – 2 pieces), thread, ruler, fabric chalk/marker.

Fabric Requirements: 

In most cases, you should place your fabric on the grain, in which case, without any length adjustments, all sizes will fit on 95cm/ 1 yd. Depending on the fabric width and size, you may be able to put two rectangles horizontally next to each other, using just 50 cm/ 20 in of fabric (not including the drawstring). We encourage you to use your leftover scrap fabric to make this top! This may look great in many fabric types, but at The Linen Lab, we always suggest linen, linen blends, or other natural fibers! Light weight and medium weight woven fabrics with good drape will work best.

Fabric Cutting Guidelines (Inches): 

US Size

Front
Width (in)

Front
Length (in)

Back
Width (in)

Back
Length (in)

Elastic
Length (in)

(Option 1) Drawstring
Length (tie) (in)*

(Option 2)

Drawstring Length (attached) (in)*

0

16 ½

20   

13 ½

18   

22

40

34

2

17 ½

20   

14 ½

18   

24

43

35

4

19   

20   

15 ½

18   

25

49

36

6

20   

20   

16 ½

18   

27

51

37

8

21 ½

20   

17 ½

18   

28

53

38

10

23   

20   

19   

18   

30

55

38

12

23 ½

20   

19 ½

18   

32

57

39

14

25   

20   

21 ½

18   

33

59

40

16

27   

20   

23   

18   

34

61

41

18

29   

20   

25   

18   

36

63

41

20

30 ½

20   

27   

18   

38

65

42

22

32 ½

20   

28 ½

18   

39

67

43

24

33 ½

20   

30 ½

18   

41

69

44

26

34 ½

20   

31 ½

18   

42

71

45

28

36   

20   

32 ½

18   

43

73

45

30

37   

20   

34   

18   

45

75

46

32

38   

20   

35   

18   

47

77

47

34

39 ½

20   

36   

18   

48

79

48

36

40 ½

20   

37 ½

18   

50

81

49

38

41 ½

20   

38 ½

18   

51

83

49

40

43   

20   

40   

18   

53

85

50

*Drawstring width is 1 ½ in.

Cut your elastic and drawstring longer in case you want to increase the length for comfort.

Fabric Cutting Guidelines (Metric): 

US Size

Front
Width (cm)

Front
Length (cm)

Back
Width (cm)

Back
Length (cm)

Elastic
Length (cm)

(Option 1)

Drawstring
Length (tie) (cm)*

(Option 2)

Drawstring Length (attached) (cm)*

0

42

50

34

45

57

103

88

2

45

50

37

45

61

111

90

4

48

50

40

45

65

126

92

6

51

50

42

45

69

131

94

8

54

50

45

45

73

136

96

10

58

50

48

45

77

141

98

12

60

50

50

45

81

146

100

14

64

50

54

45

84

151

102

16

69

50

59

45

88

156

104

18

74

50

64

45

92

161

106

20

78

50

68

45

96

166

108

22

82

50

72

45

100

171

110

24

85

50

77

45

104

176

112

26

88

50

80

45

108

181

114

28

91

50

83

45

111

186

116

30

94

50

86

45

115

191

118

32

97

50

89

45

119

196

120

34

100

50

92

45

123

201

122

36

103

50

95

45

127

206

124

38

106

50

98

45

131

211

126

40

109

50

101

45

135

216

128


* Drawstring shoulder strap width is 4 cm.

Cut your elastic and drawstring longer in case you want to increase the length for comfort.

Instructions 

Before starting: Make sure your fabric is preshrunk and ironed. Today we are using our Classic Charm: 100% Linen Mini Gingham 6833 fabric for this tutorial! 

1) Check your size on the chart above. Then cut out a front and back panel, along with a strap 4 cm (1.5 in) wide (check chart for length). The front panel is longer and wider; while the back is more narrow and short. If you prefer a baggier style, size up from the size chart above. If your bust size is a much higher size range than your waist, you can try making the front panel match your bust size and the back panel match your waist. If you bust is in a lower size range, I do not recommend sizing down to make sure the waist still fits! Tip for cutting: Getting a straight line is more challenging than you would expect. Measure several times and check that your lines are straight to get perfect rectangles! Fabric with lines (stripes, checks, plaids) definitely helps! 

2) Mark or notch the following places on your rectangles. Mark both left and right sides. While the two rectangles are not the same size, the notch measurements remain the same. It will be useful to make a toile to get the middle notch at the right space for your body, different body shapes may require this to be lowered or raised. (image not to scale):

Note: If you have adjusted the length of the pattern, keep the top and bottom measurements the same. Adjust the center line as this will be the armscye.

3) Fold and press a line at the bottom two notches and top two notches on each piece. After you press, unfold the fabric. This will create a line for you to follow later after attaching the pieces. Mark the top and bottom so you don’t get confused later.

4) With the right sides together, sew the side seams from the bottom to the 25 cm (9 3/4 in) at a seam allowance of 1.5 cm (5/8 in). Line up your fold line notches to ensure you are sewing evenly. Press seams open. Continue to press the unsewn top half, from the armscye line to the top, at the same width of 5/8 in.

5) Take one side of the seams you just pressed and fold it in half under itself and press at that width all the way up to the top of the rectangle (see photo below). Repeat on all 4 sides. Stitch the four pressed seams down as close to the edge as possible. This creates a double fold clean finish seam up both sides of the garment. 

Fold the seam under itself and press.
Above Photo: Fold under one side of the pressed seam, from the bottom all the way to the top. Repeat on opposite side. This creates a double fold clean finish 

Above Photo: Side Seams when complete, as seen from the wrong side of the fabric (garment inside). 

6) Next, fold the garment at the 8 cm (3 1/8 in) fold line and again at the 1 cm (3/8 in) fold line. This creates a deep hem. Stitch this down as close as possible to the edge of the hem. For View A, complete the hem and move on to step 9. For View B and C, leave a gap on the side of a few inches to add the elastic later.

7)  (View B and C only) Halfway through the hem (3.5 cm), add one more stitch line, leaving a gap in the same point as the hem above.

8) Feed elastic through the top hem line (View B) or top and bottom hem lines (View C). Try on the top and adjust elastics as necessary. Elastics should sit around your natural waist. When satisfied, sew elastics together firmly, and finish both hem lines. Then stretch your elastic to the full width of the fabric and sew a line down the middle of each elastic. This gives it a faux shirring look.

Feed elastic into the channel
9) Now it’s time to move on to the top casing. Press the top edges (front and back) at the 3 cm (1 1/4 in) line and the 1 cm (3/8 in) line, wrong sides together. (You already did this in step 3, but press again to make the line crisp and easy to see.  This creates a top casing for the drawstring shoulder strap. Stitch it down as close to the edge as possible. Repeat on both top edges of the front and back panel.

10)  Let’s make the drawstring strap now. If you have ribbon or cording you want to use, or premade bias tape, feel free to use it. If not, let’s make some now. Follow the chart above to find the length of the strip you need to cut. Add a little more, just in case you need more for your own preference/body shape later. It’s easier to cut off excess than to add more later. Then cut it 4 cm (1 ½ in) wide.

11) After cutting, use a bias tape maker, or create a double fold by pressing the fabric lengthwise down the middle, then fold each side over to meet at the middle line. Fold ends by one cm to finish the edges. Then sew the folded sides together to make a drawstring strap.

 

12) Use a safety pin or other object to thread your drawstring through the casing. Send your drawstring through one top casing, then loop it back through the other side. If you want to keep your drawstring loose for a tie finish, then you will need longer drawstrings (see chart above) . If you want to fix your drawstring to make permanent shoulder straps, adjust your straps to your desired length and stitch them at the shoulder. Don't worry if it doesn't look pretty, we can hide this inside the top casing later. 


Put drawstring through casing
13) Straighten your front and back top hem to your desired widths. You might need to ask a helper to straighten the back for you. If you don’t want to readjust these every time you wear them, clip these in place and then put a small stitch on each end to hold them in place. This step is optional. Keeping them loose will make it easier to iron in the future, but makes getting dressed a little harder! If you attached your ties cut any loose fabric and hide the stitched ends inside the front or back top casing.

Tie Drawstring Option
Option 1 - Tied Drawstring 

Attached drawstring
Option 2 - Attached Drawstring

Your Melon Crop top is now complete! Please share your makes with us on your social media with the tag #linenlabmelontop and tag us @linenlab.co.kr. Have any feedback on this pattern or want to share your photos with us? Send us a message via Instagram @linenlab.co.kr or email us at linenlabsocial@outlook.com

Front and Back View of View C
Finished Melon Crop Top - Size 12
Final Product - Size 12 View C with attached drawstrings in

 

Melon Top Inspiration Photos 


Size 12 View A with Tie Drawstring in Brown and Navy 100% Linen 7918

Size 20 View B

Size 20 View B in 100% Linen Thin Stripe Fabric 6495 

Curtesy of Rachel H. 

Size 8 View A in 100% Linen Fabric Thin Stripe Collections Light Weight 4768 

Curtesy of @ivy.haven

Size 6 View C in Linen Rayon 40s Thin Fabric 967

Curtesy of @rumer_has_it

Size 6 View A (reduced gathering at top) in 100% Linen Gingham Starcheck 7367

Photo curtesy of @springhillhomestead

Size 8 View A in Linen Fabric Light Weight Soft Touch 21S 7252 

Photo curtesy of @emilymadethisstuff

Dress Version of Melon Top

Size 8 View A - Hacked into a dress in a variety of fabrics from The Linen Lab

Photo curtesy of @peacefully_homegrown

Size 12 (Oversized) View C in 100% Linen Fabric Stripe Collections Light Weight 4708

 

Size 10 (Graded to size 14 at waist) View A with tied sleeve in a patchwork of Deep Red Plaid 7082 and Linen Dot Shape Fabric 6608 

Photo curtesy of @andre_sews


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